How To Tweak Your Foundation Shade
In winter we’re lighter, summer we’re darker. Is the only solution to have more than one foundation shade? Watch my video to get rid of your shade drama and learn how the pros do it!
Demystifying Makeup Techniques - Dewy vs Matte vs Natural - Part 1
I’ve heard more than one women say, “Today it’s dewy, yesterday it was matte. I have no idea about makeup, that’s why I don’t wear it!” Today I wanted to take a little time and unpack the dewy vs. natural vs. matte situation.
What exactly does it mean?
Dewy, natural, and matte are ways to describe your makeup’s finished texture..
Dewy Skin Look
Dewy -Think a face that glistens but isn’t greasy. A healthy hint of hydration, but not enough to look sweaty. It’s the dewy look that had all of Instagram a’twitter (pun intended) because it pairs very well with the super highlighted cheekbone craze. Even without the Tin-man level highlighting, dewy makeup gives a nod to beautiful, young, skin in summer. In formal situations dewy skin can lend some drama.
Who Can Wear it?
A dewy finish is for everyone, however with darker skin tones it’s easy to cross the line between dewy and greasy-looking. To avoid over “dewing” it ( see what I did there) keep areas like the chin, nose, and forehead more of a natural finish than full on dewy.
Matte -Think a bit more refined. With this texture your color choices for your features is what would add drama, not the texture itself. This is a texture that is more pulled together, no glisten, no shimmer, no shine. The word, “velvety” is what comes to mind. When you look at a matte finish you see the total opposite of dewy. Extreme matte can appear and feel too dry; the perfect matte is visually soft.
This is as matte as I get!
Though this makeup leans toward bold, this base (foundation) texture is very natural.
Who Can Wear It?
A true matte finish is perfect for younger, oily skin. It can be tricky for more mature skin or skin with fine lines and wrinkles, as this finish could cause makeup to accentuate these areas.
Natural - A natural finish will look like your skin, only better. If the color is matched properly, a natural textured look will not look like you have makeup on. Think of your face bare. With bare skin does the light catch your face? It does, but does it do so in highly textured, stand out, way? No, it doesn’t. No Tin-man shiny metal, or glistening. No velvety finish. Just pure, regular skin texture. When done correctly a natural textured makeup application will look healthy and hydrated, with imperfections minimized.
Who Can Wear It?
Every one can wear a natural texture with no worries. It’s a great place to start with young women just getting into makeup as well as being ideal for mature skin. When in doubt always go natural.
So hopefully you understand the terminology better, but what about achieving the look? How many products do you need to create each texture? Can you achieve all the textures with one product? I’ll answers these questions in my next post, “Dewy vs Matte vs Natural - Achieving the Perfect Texture.”
Foundation only. On the left a dewy look. On the right, natural.
Get The Look: Makeup Perfection That Lasts Over 8 Hours
I’m giving you the tools the pros use for flawless makeup that literally lasts all day, no touch ups. This is why I love working with the LimeLife brand, this is the real deal. This is no gimmicks just real knowledge that you can use for your best results!
This was formal graduation party makeup on a one of the hottest summer days so far. First let me give you the run down of the makeup for this look.
LimeLife blushes. 08 SLAM and 07 Peachy are pointed out by the arrows.
I was going for a monotone beauty look, not too much color. My bronze effect came from LimeLIfe Blush in 08 SLAM (from the Dynamic by Danessa Collection) and 07 Peachy. My highlight effect was a bit of a cocktail I made from about 5 products I had on hand.
I created an eyeshadow quad I’m calling Summer Toast using LimeLife eyeshadows Higher Ground, Fortune Cookie, OM, and Phoenix..
Liner was Enduring Eye Liner in Black.
Lilpstick was MAC Fresh Brew with LimeLifes Enduring Lip Liner in Festive Pink.
LimeLife’s Enduring Eye Liner in Black and Enduring Lip Liner in Festive Pink along with MAC lipstick in Fresh Brew
And to seal the deal: LimeLife’s Setting Spray, 10 Years Younger!
LimeLife’s setting sprays are created by the leading professional setting spray creator that professionals have used for years before setting sprays were discovered commercially by the masses. 10 Years Younger Spray is a formula that not only sets and seals makeup, it also keeps makeup from settleling into fine lines and wrinkles. The Oil Strike Spray is a formula that, along with setting and sealing makeup, also blocks excess oil. It provides a more matte finish than the 10 Years Younger Spray which is more dewey when compared to Oil Strike.
LimeLife by Alone’s Setting Sprays: 10 Year Younger and Oil Strike
Check out all LimeLife by Alcone’s products HERE
Get The Look: Blue Eyeliner
Try this look at home
Here’s another blue eyeshadow look where I used a wet brush and created a blue eyeliner. These are the products:
Foundation : No foundation for this look all MAC Studio Conceal ( I’m out of my personal LL concealer and foundation!)
Brows : Senna Brow Book
Eyeshadow: LimeLife Perfect Bronzer #4
LimeLife Dynamic by Danessa Matte Eyeshadow in Rise Up
Liner : Inglot AMC Eyeliner Gel 77 water line top
LimeLife Blue Violet from the Fresh Picked Palette
LimeLife Enduring Eyeliner in Brown bottom waterline
Mascara: Mannakadar Bloom Volumizing Mascara
Lips: LimeLife Perfect Lipstick 101 Down and Flirty
LimeLife Jeweled Lipgloss Humble
Cheeks LimeLife Dynamic by Danessa Glow Perfect Cream Highlighter Diamond and Sunset
LimeLife Perfect Bronzer #4 and #07
LimeLife Dynamic by Danessa Blush in 08 SLAM
Trends: The Blues Are Back In Town
Forget about the 80’s, blue shadow is made for now.
Blue Eyeshadow examples I pulled from Elle.com article 20 Celebrities Working Blue Eyeshadow Like the 80s Never Existed by George Driver
Above Alison Brie, Willow Smith, and Bella Hadid
Every 5 years or so we see it coming in some form, the return of blue eyeshadow. Now wait a minute! Wait! Hear me out on this one. It’s not our mother’s blue eyeshadow. One of the great things about modern technology is the ability to refine inventions and products that weren’t executed so well at first. Blue eyeshadow is no exception.
Ruth Negga is wide eyed in blue as top liner by keeping the bottom line dark brown.
photo from Elle.com
Get Ruth Negga’s look by using my favorite blue wet/dry shadow, Blue Violet in the Freshed Picked Collection for Spring 2019 (LimeLife by Alcone)
Here is the breakdown of what you need to know to participate in the blue trend in a modern, tasteful and fun way!
Mandy Moore in this Elle.com picture has a subtle pale blue made modern by black eyeliner.
You aren’t restricted to a certain shade. From pastels, to color combos, you can stay in your comfort zone.
Make sure you use a wet/dry shadow. This will allow you to play with intensity.
Dry = lighter, Wet = vibrant or darker. It will also allow you to use your blue shadow as a liner and not shadow, giving you a more sophisticated or low-key option.
Use a finely milled formula. Again this will give you versatility. A finely milled shadow is like silk and you can work it and blend it with ease. Your safety button with fashion colored eyeshadow? Being able to blend that color out to soften it!
Have fun! It’s makeup not a tattoo!
How To - Cocoa Rose Custom Palette
Three things I love about LimeLife eye shadows:
They are packed with pigment. One swipe gives you great color payoff.
They are finely milled and feel like silk. They melt like buttah!
They come in individual pans and you can custom make your palettes in groups of four, six, eight, or eighteen.
Check the www.limelifebyalcone.com for these shadow names.
I wanted a pink/brown combo so I custom created what I’m calling the Cocoa Rose Platte! It consists of these four colors:
Color 22 - In Sequins
Rise Up - From the Danessa Myricks Matte Collection (currently in pre-made palette only)
Color 11 - Flashdance
Higher Ground - From the Danessa Myricks Matte Collection (currently in pre-made palette only)
Yes, two of the colors in this palette aren’t available as individuals because they were a part of a special limited edition palette created by Danessa Myricks for LimeLife (if you don’t know her, google her!) If you ever were to buy one palette, this would it! These mattes are amazing and the warm colors are perfection!
Usually the Limited Edition palettes have colors from them that become permanent but we won’t know for some time what they are from this specific palette. I suggest you grab one! You will wear every color!
Back to my Cocoa Rose Palette. The salmon orange-pink of Flashdance reminded me of a rose. And sure enough I found one with coloring that reminds me of this palette. Online it’s called the Hot Chocolate Rose, what do you think?
Rise Up on upper lid to brow. Flasdance on upper lid and middle over concealer. Higher Ground in crease taken all the way across. In Sequins put in center over to inner corner.
Makeup How To: What To Look For When Buying Eyeshadow
Before you add anymore eyeshadows to your makeup drawer learn what makes a quality eyeshadow so that you can invest your makeup dollars wisely!
Let's Talk Makeup Sponges
About using makeup sponges for makeup application,
LimeLife by Alcone’s makeup wedges
I completely agree that price is not always a indicator of quality, however, all sponges are NOT created equal.
If I, personally am using a makeup sponge it is one of 3 types/brands:
1. LimeLife by Alcone’s Blenderful
2 .LimeLife by Alcone Wedge
3. Makeup Forever Wedge
What makes a sponge great?
1. Perfect density
2. Varied surface sizes
3. Non latex (allergies)
4. Doesn’t fall apart after multiple cleanings.
What makes a sponge terrible?
1. Fabric around the sponge and the fabric moves, or too soft a sponge.
2. Only surviving one or two cleanings.
3. Inferior sponge quality that grows mold from the inside out (seen it happen)
Ask a Makeup Artist whether they prefer fingers, a sponge, or brushes, and they are guaranteed to have preference but can adapt to each.
I personally would suggest a sponge for 3 reasons:
1. Better chance of natural, even coverage with little to no learning curve.
2. When more coverage is needed but a seamless skin like finish is still desired.
3. When time is limited but perfection is still desired
Try using your fingers, try a brush, or a sponge. I suggest anyone really interested in having the most natural look should try each type of application and see for themselves which fits both the experience level and their lifestyle as far as time. Quality tools are a must, and your makeup sponge is not exception.
If you’ve been eyeing the egg shaped makeup sponges, I highly recommend the LimeLIfe by Alcone brand. It gives you the most bang for your buck! I literally have had one for a year that has held up through dozens of cleanings, with no mold and no staining. The pointed end for hard to reach places like around the nose and around eyes, and the flat side for blending around the face/temples/chin, make it perfect for makeup beginners as well as artists.
LimeLife by Alcone’s Blenderful
Meet Your Tween in the Middle
Do you have a tween just itching to wear makeup, but you aren’t ready?
If you're a parent of a daughter around 12-ish, first of all condolences, second, you know how excited they are to transition into full teen-hood! As a mom of a two men, a toddler boy, and a 15 year old girl, I know how the tween years can be. One of the problems comes with the age old question of when should your daughter start wearing makeup? Contrary to popular belief there is no makeup-police guidebook or law that tells you when it's "appropriate." I personally don't even like the word "appropriate" in this subject because there are so many personal factors to consider that it makes the word "appropriate" completely subjective. Only a parent knows if/when it is right for their child. It's a very personal, parental decision that no one else should weigh in on.
That being said, I recently had a back-to-school makeup session with my niece, Ava. Her mom and dad are not nearly as eager as she is to wear makeup. In fact her father would stop her growing all together if he could! So, I created a look for her that is father-approved, and tween approved, which wasn't as hard as you think. I'll let you in on how to tackle this situation:
1. Cleanse. The foundation of great makeup is great skin. There's really no reason that a 10 year old (girl, or boy) can't have their own cleansing routine. Bacteria and toxins from the environment are prominent on our skin, keeping it clean is a necessity. The upside, however, is that a cleansing routine will help them to feel more "grown-up," give them sense of responsibility. And half the appeal of wearing makeup is the feeling of being grown-up, right?
2. Moisturize. You don't want to go straight to tinted moisturizer or foundation? Invest in a quality moisturizer. You will keep her skin hydrated and glowing. We try to achieve younger looking, even skin, with foundation. They're a tween, more than likely they have a beautiful even complexion already. Keeping it moisturized will protect it. And even if it isn't perfect, starting with moisturizer only will help them love their skin regardless of imperfections. Add a sun screen for extra protection (very important.) If you can handle it, you can kick it up a notch like I did with Ava. I applied a bit of a cream illuminating product to the moisturizer. This elevates the look from healthy skin to healthy skin 2.0! She'll be excited and see a bit of "oomph," and you'll be excited it still is not full on color of foundation.
* If there is a skin issue with acne or breakouts, please see a dermatologist, and follow their directions. Keeping the skin free from bacteria is very important with breakouts. If you decide you want her to use a bit of foundation you can add it to the moisturizer to thin it out.
4 Shades of LimeLife’s Rich brow gel, including clear.
3. Go Clear. Did you know eyebrow gel and mascara come in clear gel formulas? Yup, they do! Score! She gets to use real products she can keep in her purse, (gotta have some makeup in the purse, or they'll just die!) and you are feeling like she didn't age 5 years in 5 minutes! Many brands, from drug store to luxury, make clear formulas.
4. Use the Right Tools and Colors. I used a regular black mascara on Ava, however I used one with thin plastic bristle brush. This type of brush divides lashes and only puts a minimal amount of product on the lashes. Just enough, not too detectable, and no spider lashes. When it came to eye shadow, I didn't use an eye primer or anything to make the eye shadow stand out more. Just a light wash of color with a fluffy eye brush. For lips, I used a liquid lip color but applied with a lip brush. I taught her how to apply it with this separate brush so she can control the amount on her lips. The light pink of they eye shadow and lip was just enough for this tween beauty!
Darker Shades, or the Oh-Now-You-See-Me? Effect
Kevin Aucoin Makeup
Photo property of Kevin Aucoin Makeup
So I was surprised to see that Almay has extended it's shade range. It seems like Rihanna's brand Fenty, with it's 40 shades, suddenly woke brands up. Maybe that wasn't the catalyst, maybe they were in the works already? Who knows. What I do know is there have been brands that always included diversity. Besides brands specifically for black women like Fashion Fair, Iman and Black Opal, there were brands like Prescriptive who would custom mix any shade, and even Revlon, who started their Color Stay line in a bevy of shades from the beginning. As a pro there was always access to professional brands like Ben Nye, RCMA, Cinema Secrets, Graftobian, and Mehron. If these brands didn't have the perfect shade they had the raw materials for pros to create it. What other brands were diverse before it was fashionable? MAC, MakeupForever, Kevin Auccoin, Cover FX, Estee Lauder, FaceAtalier, Nars, Dior, Tom Ford, even Maybelline.
Dior Makeup
Photo Property of Dior
It's awesome for diverse skintones to have so many choices, we never thought we'd see the day! As more brands are coming on board, should brand loyalty be shown to those always recognized beauty in darker tones? Will the new brands jumping on the band wagon stay in the game or is it phase. Questions to ponder as we let our beauty shine!
Trends: Fenty Beauty
I did not go and by the whole line so this is a limited review. With the plentiful reliable reviews of the oxidation of the foundation, I thought I'd skip it for now as I have plenty of foundation options for woc. This trip I purchased a couple of things including this; the Killawatt freestyle highlighter duo. This one has an illuminator on one side in Ginger Binge and a shimmer on the other in Moscow Mule. I was hoping for a completely modern take on illuminator and shimmer. I usually use creams these days but am waiting for some powder options. While some are saying both are way too shimmery here's what I think.
The powder of the illuminator resembles a powder to cream. It's very buttery and bendable. The blendability is what keeps me from saying it's way too shimmery. As a cheek highlighter the illuminator is as modern as a powder illuminator can get. It does leave a hint of visible texture but that is the problem with powder illuminators. The shimmer side is definitely too shimmery to be taken seriously, in my opinion, as a blush or hightlighter. However, as an eyeshadow both are quite nice - blend beautifully,, and look great. The question is do you need two blush sized eyeshadows for $34?
Final opinion. While the formula is nice and blends beautifully, powder highlighters just don't do it for me. There are so many beautiful cream options. As an eyeshadow it's beautiful but again, there are plenty of quality, buttery shadows on the market to buy Killawat just as a shadow. I haven't tried the cream sticks but I think it may be a better option.
So I have to admit there was something exciting about the launch of Rihanna's makeup line Fenty. I'm not one to do celebrity lines and Fenty is a brand created using an incubator, meaning it's turned out from a mother company that turns out a few other celeb brands. Two things made this different for me. 1. She's a woc and millennial (ish) who would know what other modern woc want and are missing in makeup. 2. She is very independent in her style and artistic choices and I was hoping that would translate into her makeup.
Learn How To: Clean Your Brushes
Cleaning is removing particles of dirt or debris from something. Sanitizing is reducing the amount, or removing completely micro organisms and/or viruses.
As a makeup artist I daily make sure that the brushes I use are not only clean, but also sanitized. When it comes to my set for my own personal use, I do the same. You should too. You want to cleanse with a conditioning brush shampoo and then sanitize with 70% Ethyl alcohol. Why so specific with the alcohol sanitzing? This is because according to the CDC, "Ethyl alcohol at concentrations of 60% to 80% is a potent viruscidal agent inactivating all of lipophilic viruses (e.g. hergpes, vaccinia, influenza and many hydrophilic viruses.)... Isopropayl alcohol is not active against the non lipid entero viruses... Studies have demonstrated the ability of ethyl alcohol to inactivate the hepatitis B virus... and HIV, rotavirus, echovirus and astrovirus." So in plain English you must use Ethyl alcohol found in a beauty or medical supply storenot Isopropyl alcohol that is found in most drug stores. And the percentage of the Ethyl alcohol must be 60% - 70% percent. Anything higher will evaporate before it has the chance to work.
You want to clean your brushes at least once per week and sanitize at least once a month if you are only using for personal use.
Here’s how:
1. Wipe your makeup brush on a lint free paper towel to remove any excess makeup.
2. Use a solution to cut oil based makeup if necessary.
3. Shampoo the brushes with a conditioning brush shampoo. You can use a gentle baby shampoo if necessary.
4. Gently shake or wrap in a clean towel to squeeze out excess water.
5. Reshape and dry with brush side down or lay on a flat surface where the brush can hang off the edge.
6. Once dry, spray with 70% Ethyl alcohol.
What’s Currently In My Kit: Micellar Water
Micellar waters by Simple and Garnier available in your local drugstore.
What is it?
An old school French beauty product that has recently resurfaced in America. It removes makeup and cleanses the skin without the need to rinse. It looks like water and appears to move like water but has, generally has a more dense feel than water.
Why is it called micellar water?
Because it is made up of micells (pronounced mī-ˈsels). Micells are little groups of round submicroscopic particles that suspended and dispersed in a medium.
What does that mean for you?
It means that there are tiny little clusters of round particles of cleansing solution suspended in soft water. These little particles act as magnets to dirt and oil on your face. With one swipe you can clear away makeup, dirt and and oil.
Can you use it on all skin types including sensitive ?
Yes. Micellar water made to mirror the old French formulas are ideal for sensitive and dry skin. Though not oily, the cleansers in the water are oil based (gentle) and don't contain harsh chemicals that can further dry or irritate your skin. Severe oilly skin types sometimes find it doesn't cleanse thoroughly. It can also fall short with waterproof makeup. To solve that problem there are newer formulas that address oily skin, waterproof makeup, and even acne prone skin.
How do you use it?
You dampen a cotton pad with it and gently wipe. Seriously, that's it.
If you made it this long without it why get it now?
Not only is it gentle, and quick, and makes you feel like you know a chic French secret, it's completely economical. Micellar water usually comes in bottles containing at least 6.5 oz of product, sometimes more. I'm no math genius, but even I can calculate that it's more gentle to your budget than makeup remover wipes! The pièce de résistance? One of my favorites by the brand Simple. is found in any local drug store or even supermarket!
You're welcome!
Copyright August 29, 2016 Cici Pagan ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
What Is A Professional Makeup Artist?
Let's face it, there is no shortage of people calling themselves makeup artists these days. Try-before-you-buy stores such as Sephora and Ulta have not only created more educated beauty consumers, but have given makeup enthusiasts the perfect playground. Many makeup enthusiasts have combined access to more products and more product knowledge with social media and have not only showcased their own personal makeup arsenal and ability to transform themselves but have acquired followers who rely on their product reviews and approvals. This in turn has given some makeup enthusiasts the opportunity to parlay this into applying their signature look to others as a business. While the beauty industry has never been more consumer friendly (or profitable) it does raise the question, "What is a professional makeup artist?"
Makeup as a profession has been around in some form since ancient times. Wherever there was live story telling, there was makeup. From Shakespearean plays to Kabuki theater, to the first silent movies in the 1920's there was someone in charge of applying makeup. Many don't realize the scope of the field or the talent and knowledge needed to be a professional makeup artist. Here's a quick description of just some of the general qualifications.
Obviously a professional in any field is one that sustains a living by applying their trained discipline for a profit. The operative word here is "trained." Depending on whether they are consumer, production, fashion show, theater or print artists, the professional makeup artists must:
Posses the skills to apply makeup on ALL skin tones and types in a way that keeps the client looking like themselves, not a caricature of themselves
Have the ability to apply makeup on ALL skin tones and types in a way that makes the client look like someone or something else.
Be able to camouflage skin imperfections on all skin tones an types with virtually no visibility to the eye.
Possess the ability to apply makeup in a way that brings youth to mature skin and keeps the appearance of youth in youthful skin.
Have the skill set to create customized makeup and colors from whatever makeup they are using.
Understand how various makeup textures and mediums interact
Have an understanding of the science of color.
Have an understanding of the science of light.
Have an understanding of the history of makeup.
There are makeup artists that have spent over 5 decades in their craft of makeup artistry (Maurice Stein) and are responsible for iconic images etched in our memories (Planet of the Apes, Funny Girl, MASH, Golden Girls). There a many veteran professional artists that have changed the way women wear and think of makeup (Val Garland, Eugenia Watson, Pat Magrath.) There are also many international and local makeup artists who are professionals growing and learning through constant continued education and work, combining traditional skills with the knowledge of innovative technology to keep the profession moving forward .
There are many makeup enthusiast with the ability to use makeup to reflect the trends, and their are beauty influencers that influence the bottom line of beauty companies in a significant and unprecedented way. Then you have the professional makeup artist. Make no mistake, the profession is indeed a skilled one. It's a profession many artists have invested years of blood, sweat and tears in. There is room for all in the beauty industry and an artist for every client type and personality, however knowledge is power. Hiring a professional makeup artist is, in most cases, a luxury. Knowing what is behind the credential will allow you to choose a professional that can provide an experience created by skill, knowledge and a love for the art, not just a love of makeup. There you will find an experience unique to the professional artist.
Perfect Pouts,
C 💋
Copyright August 29, 2016 Cici Pagan ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
About This Blog
This blog is the property of Cici Pagan and all contents are under full copyright. No permission is given to remove any content and repost without specific permission being granted by Cici Pagan.
Any content that is not original will include the credits for the source.
Cici Pagan is neither a doctor nor dermatologist and any medical or dermatological references, suggestions, or opinions should only be viewed as her personal opinion and not a professional medical recommendation. Any reference, suggestion or opinion that seems medically related in any way should be discussed with your physician, dermatologist or personal healthcare provider.
Any product opinions, suggestions or recommendations made in this blog are the personal opinions of Cici Pagan and have not been influenced by any personal or professional relationship or paid endorsement agreement.